US M1908 Cavalry Breeches: Khaki for the Pre-War Trooper

The first time I wore US M1908 Cavalry Breeches to an event it was late spring, already warm by nine. They're the golden tan khaki that the Army's mounted men wore in the years before the doughboys and their olive drab took over the picture, and the M1908 cavalry breeches are one of those pieces that quietly sort out an impression from about 1908 up to the first months of the war.

I portray a pre-war trooper, mostly at small living-history days and the occasional ride. So this is written from that angle: what the originals were, what the reproduction gets right, and the bits that people tend to muddle (because they do muddle them, me included when I started).

Where the M1908 Cavalry Breeches Came From

The khaki story starts with the Spanish-American War. The 1899 uniform regulations provided a cotton khaki uniform for field service, drawing on that war, when men had worn both blue and khaki. A Military Trader article points out that as early as 1898 the regulations described a field service blouse made of cotton drilling or khaki, "light-brown in color." Light brown. Keep that in mind, we'll come back to colour.

Then 1902. The Imperial War Museum's catalogue notes that the US Army adopted khaki uniform from that year, largely as a result of the Spanish-American War. Between 1902 and 1917 the Army ran three uniforms, with olive drab wool for the field and a khaki cotton counterpart beside it, while blue was kept for dress.

The patterns didn't sit still. One long-time collector working through the specifications for the enlisted khaki coats of the period found changes "often every year," and breeches weren't immune to that sort of tinkering either. So when someone tells you a pattern year with total confidence, it's fair to ask which specification they mean.

The Back Belt, and Why Collectors Care

The detail that marks this pattern for most people is the back belt (the buckleback, if you spend time on collector sites). A dealer's write-up of an original pair says cavalrymen on the 1916 Punitive Expedition into Mexico, and in the early days of the war, were issued M-1908 khaki riding breeches with that distinctive buckleback for sizing, and that the feature was dropped on later breeches. I'd normally take dealer copy with a pinch of salt. But the same write-up calls early buckleback breeches quite rare today, and that rings true from what turns up for sale.

The reproduction has the back belt, plus full seat reinforcement, which is the bit of the breeches that takes the punishment if you actually ride in them.

And there's the 1917 question. Our product notes say these were still being issued in 1917 as old stocks were used up for mobilisation, which makes sense when you think of how fast the Army had to clothe men that year. The Imperial War Museum notes that when the AEF arrived in France in June 1917 they were dressed in the M1912 khaki service dress. So the 1908 pattern isn't the "standard" WWI breech. It's the older pattern you'd plausibly see on a man kitted out from depot stock early on, and I think that's a more interesting thing to portray anyway.

Colour, Cut and a Common Mistake

Here's what bugs me. People see "khaki" and expect one shade. On the US Militaria Forum, a contributor who has clearly handled a lot of originals says early cotton service breeches were made from a tanner shade of khaki cotton, and that as the war went on Quartermaster colour standards were relaxed and breeches showed up in a wide range of hues. The same post says early enlisted breeches were cut wider (looser) through the seat.

So the golden tan of the M1908 breeches is not a manufacturing slip. A couple of buyers have said they find it a touch too tan, and I understand the reaction if your reference point is a faded original or a 1918 photograph, but the early stuff really was on the tanner side. Mine has softened a little with washing, which I don't mind at all.

The loose seat surprises people too. On a horse it makes perfect sense. Standing around in camp you'll look a bit baggy, and that's correct.

How I Wear Them

My kit for a pre-war or Punitive Expedition day goes roughly like this:

• the breeches, laced snug at the calf before the leggings go on
• a pullover shirt, sleeves down in the morning, rolled by noon
• canvas leggings
• a campaign hat and the usual web gear

The fit is the thing to get right before you go anywhere near an event. These sit high (properly high, up near the navel rather than on the hips), and if you measure at the hips the way you would for modern trousers you'll end up ordering too small. Several reviewers say they went up a size, and a couple washed them hot to shrink them down to a perfect fit. I sized up and haven't regretted it, though I'd say measure where they'll actually sit first, then decide.

One minor gripe, which a reviewer also raised: the buttons. They look right, but check the threads now and then. A quick reinforcing stitch at home is easier than hunting for a button in a field.

Away from the reenacting crowd, I've noticed the US M1908 Cavalry Breeches picking up riders, cyclists and even people who do vintage-style hunting. Fair enough. They were made for men on horseback, and that cut hasn't stopped being useful.

What Our Customers Say About It

The reviews are worth a read before you order, mostly for the sizing tips. A few lines that stood out to me:

• "Fit remarkably well with high quality stitching. They look just like the real breeches"
• "The shape of the legs are perfect and not overblown and the calf lacing is perfect."
• "The color is golden tan, not quite khaki."
• "Do not expect to look elegant in these, but you will look authentic."

That last one is my favourite, and it's true. You can read the rest on the customer reviews page.

Disclaimer: Historical information provided for educational purposes only. For accurate product specifications and details, please check our product pages, reviews, or contact customer service.

Experience a piece of history for yourself! Check out our authentic reproduction of US Model 1908 Cavalry Breeches here: Get Your US Model 1908 Cavalry Breeches